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Understanding Your Diamond Appraisal: Antique Diamond Cuts

Updated: May 22, 2021

I am often asked to appraise pieces that have been inherited, which sometimes means running into the diamond cuts in the above graphic. Some are more common than others, some have become somewhat popular for new engagements, while others I have never seen in person. Let's take a look.

Table cuts are a shape I occasionally see in diamonds and more often in colored stones, especially in Art Deco pieces.

Old Single cuts are a shape I haven't run into a whole lot but are sometimes paired with Old Mine cuts. Traditional single cuts (similar to these, but with a round outward shape) are what I usually encounter in pieces with both Old Mine and Old European cuts.

The Mazarin cut is one I have never seen in person and one I doubt I'll appraise soon; however, its history is quite interesting. It is considered the first brilliant style cut and was developed in the mid-17th century and is accredited to Cardinal Jules Mazarin. It may also be known as the Lisbon cut.

The Old Mine cut dates back to 1681 and is attributed to Vincent Peruzzi, a diamond cutter from Venice who changed the number of facets in the Mazarin cut, resulting in a diamond with 58 facets and significantly more brilliance. Old Mine cuts are a direct ancestor to the modern brilliant cuts we have today.

Vincent Peruzzi also created the Peruzzi cut. This cut is similar to the Mazarin in that it only consists of 33 facets, and I have never seen one in person.

The French cut is similar to the table cut and is a shape I have often seen in channel set colored stones as well as diamonds, especially in Art Deco pieces.

I wear Old European cut diamonds every day. Dating between 1890 and 1930, Old European cut diamonds are faceted with 58 facets and are the predecessor to the modern round brilliant. Mine were my husband's grandmother's, and all have a story to tell.

Swiss cuts are a 19th century precursor to the modern single cut.

Double Rose cut diamonds are faceted on each side and may be known as Dutch Rose cuts. This shape looks wonderful bezel set along a chain as both sides will be visible at different times. I have seen this shape in both diamonds and other gemstones.

Rose cuts are faceted on one side while flat on the other. Typically ranging from 3 to 24 facets, a Rose cut is designed to resemble a rosebud. I have seen more Rose cuts in other gemstones than diamonds.

Briolette cut diamonds are faceted all around and are used as drops, usually from chandelier earrings or drop-style necklaces. Other gems are often cut into briolettes as well.

As always, feel free to ask questions!

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